My Camino - words and pictures, beginning to end

PREPARATION
The idea for doing the Camino came from my son Joey who has walked the first section in 2007. I was excited by his account, and by his pictures (see Joey's Camino 2007 here). He kept assuring me: "Of course, you can do it Mother, I know you can". And he turned out to be right, though I often doubted my ability during the journey.
I'm not a walker by nature. If there is no public transport available, and I haven't been able to scrounge a lift from someone, yes I will certainly walk from A to B. But the idea of walking for pleasure doesn't appeal to me. So it must have been
a moment of madness when I decided to take this on the challenge to walk over 300 km (186.4 miles, but it seems much longer when I say it in metric) Dublin to Cork is 136 miles = 220 km.This is a photo of the banner of St James, at the Church at James' Gate in Dublin where I got my Pilgrim Passport for my Camino. I had walked over 12 km from my home in Tallaght to get there, and would walk back again, practising for the kind of distances I would cover each day on the Camino.

When I look at this picture of St James, I am inclined to think that the artist never walked the Camino, otherwise they would surely know the weight and impracticality of such clothes in the hot summer weather in the North of Spain. As for doing it in his bare feet, and with such a spindly stick - I don't think so

***

That was one of the first tasks to prepare for my own Camino in 2008. I worked hard to reduce my luggage. The recommendation is that you should carry no more than 10% of your weight. Since my weight is around 55 kg, that meant I could barely go over 5 kg. Do you know how little 5 kg is?

Anyway, by carefully weighing everything, and stripping superfluous wrappers and even trimming around the printout of my coach ticket, I got my bag below the 5 kilo mark - so leaving myself something for a food-bag, which I reckoned I would have eaten through before the Camino started in earnest (I was making my way by coach from Dublin, via Bilbao, to the proposed start at Leon in order to save the environment by not flying!)

But by the time I had satisfied my anxieties about not having enough food, and totally discounted the idea of buying what I needed as I went along, I ended up carrying a food-bag that far outweighed the little rucksack with my other belongings in it.

DUBLIN to LEON via BILBAO

1. Thur June 26 2008

Bus, Ferry and Coach to LONDON.

Here is a view from the ferry leaving Dublin.

The journey from Dublin was uneventful. I chatted with someone on the coach, and a man in the Travel Centre at Victoria station in London, told me an easy and cheap way to get to the hostel by bus.

I stayed overnight at Piccadilly Backpackers Hostel where a girl volunteered to take the top bunk, and save me having to climb up. I really appreciated this.

2. Fri June 27 2008

Coach, Ferry, Coach to PARIS

I left the hostel before 0530, and was soon on my way on another uneventful journey, this time to Paris where I arrived mid afternoon. Paris coach station isn't very exciting, but having been there several times now, at least it is familiar. I didn't even leave the station, but amused myself people-watching until the coach for Bilbao left around 1845.

Coach overnight to BILBAO.

Again, yet another uneventful journey. We stopped along the way in time for me to enjoy the sun setting.

After that, I slept much of the journey, and was very surprised when the woman beside woke me and told me we had reached Bilbao. It was only about 0615, and I expected to be travelling until mid afternoon. So that meant I had virtually an extra day in Bilbao which I hadn't expected.

3. Sat June 28 2008

I had my first little adventure shortly after arriving in Bilbao. I wanted to go to the Information office, and got some directions. Bilbao is in the Basque country, and not everyone even speaks Spanish. So I must have got some wires crossed. I did find the Info Centre in the public library, and I thought I read on the notice board that it would open at 1000, but not knowing the days of the week, I didn't realize that it said 'weekdays'.

So I waited and waited, and eventually someone came and I asked them. They told me Closed on Saturday, but that there was another Info Centre down near the Guggenheim, and that would be open. So off I set, and found my way without too much difficulty - I had been given a map at the coach station.

Even with all the waiting about, I was still early for the opening time, so I amused myself taking pictures of the outside of the Guggenheim. What an amazing building it is, and how I loved all the different views.

They were very helpful at this Info Centre, even though I had to wait for a while for the chap to sort out my accommodation.


In the end, he found that Albergue Bilbao, where I had already booked into for Sunday and Monday, had a cancellation and so could take me that night after all. I was delighted. It simplified my life a lot not to have to be changing from one hostel to another. So I made my way to the Albergue, and was glad to be able to rest, eat, and shower after my long journey.

4. Sun June 29 2008

I had enquired at the Albergue the previous day about times for Mass at the Church of St Joseph which I had discovered near the Guggenheim the previous day. My impression was that it was at 0800 in the morning. So bright and early I set out, and had another little adventure. I thought I got the same bus as the previous evening, but this one took me on a tour of the old part of Bilbao, and stopped at a different terminus to where I expected. I thought I was going to be late for Mass, but I got to the church on time, only to find that Mass was actually in the evening time!

This meant that I got to the museum far too early. Never mind, I sat there in the sun, eating the packed breakfast they had given me at the Albergue, and at 1000 on the dot, I entered the doors. l spent the whole day wandering around the various collections. As I wrote later:




This picture is the golden Spider called Maman (1999), by Louise Bourgeois/ More information here

The day at the Guggenheim was a delight. Because I was on my own, I could linger as long as I wanted at each exhibit. I took my time, and relished virtually all I saw, and then before I left, I went around the whole museum yet again, to make sure I hadn't missed anything. I certainly got good value for my admission charge.

What did I like the best? I think probably the Richard Serra pieces called The Matter of Time. (a picture and article about the work here) The catalogue mentions 'complete rumination on the physicality of space and the nature of sculpture.' There was an excellent audio guide with Serra's own voice talking about the work. That was special for me.
The other section I was in love with was the Juan Munoz retrospective, with dozens, even hundreds of figures, including the ones falling around the place laughing at the entrance to the museum.

Follow this link to see a selection of the Munoz work shown

I only left at 1950, leaving myself just enough time to get to St Joseph's. My memory is quite hazy as to whether I did get Mass, or if I had again mistaken the time!

When I got back to the Albergue, I remember it was quite late, that is maybe heading for 2200. I had totally forgotten - if I ever noticed it, the sign saying that reception closed at 2100. Because I had left early, the arrangements for me to change dorms hadn't been finalized, and now there was only a security man on duty. Luckily for me, he was kind enough to phone the receptionist on my behalf, and to find out where I was to sleep. It was the same dorm, but now I had it all to myself. Had a great night's sleep.

5. Mon June 30 2008

I didn't have to leave quite so early the next morning for my day-trip to Guernika. I had been longing to visit this place for many years, mainly since my son had painted a large copy of Picasso's painting on our kitchen wall, and I discovered that the tragic bombing of the town had taken place when I was only three days old - April 26 1937.

After I came back to the Albergue I wrote:

Not only did the sun shine for most of the day, but the pace of the day was ideal, and there was a delightful breeze to temper the sun, so that I was able to walk for hours without discomfort - good practice for the Camino starting Wednesday early.
The journey to Gernika took about an hour over hills and down dales so I got a good look at the countryside around Bilbao. It's surprisingly green, very like Ireland. Gernika itself delighted me every minute. The people were very friendly, especially in the touristika where I got lots of information and a map that I used all the time.

At the town, I saw another copy of the painting, this time in tiles.

I also saw the market place and the bridge where the bombs had fallen, and could see on the map I got in the Tourist Information, the extent of the destruction that had been done.

As I wandered around, eager to see everything, I saw my first Camino Yellow arrow, and took the opportunity to explore a small part of the Camino du Nord

which runs through the town.

The CAMINO

6. Tues July 1 2008

Another early morning start with packed breakfast. I was at Termibus in plenty of time, and got a good seat in the coach.

I arrived there mid afternoon, and as always, my first priority was to find the Office de Turistaco, Leon

This is where I went to get information about the Camino Albergue, since I had left the list Joey gave me at home. As it was siesta time, I had to wait till it re-opened at 1700. The lady was ‘cool’ - efficient, and gave me the information I needed, but not very friendly. She directed me to Monasterio Refugio which was attached to a Benedictine convent.

As I crossed the cobbled piazza with the cross in the centre, I wondered how many pilgrims had crossed that square since mediaeval times. Once I'd found a bed, I ate supper with other pilgrims. One of the lads offered to show two of us where Gaudi's Casa de Botines was located nearby. It used to be an apartment building with offices of a textile company, now it's a bank.
Last thing at night we had an evening prayer session with the nuns - all in Spanish!

7. Wed July 2 2008 [First Day] León - Villar de Mazarife

Yet another early morning. When the doors of the monasterio opened at 0600, I scurried out, and walked briskly through the empty streets to the coach station where Joey was waiting for me. Straight away we start off on our first day's walking.

Casa Cultural San Roque Chozas de Abajo (Leon) I think this was a deserted office at side of church with self-service stamp. I remember very little specifically about all the walking we did that day.

The main difficulty I had was managing that blessed food-bag. A satchel with a long strap, much of the time it was banging off my leg. And no matter how much I ate, or how much water I drank, it still stayed heavy.

So I was glad when we stopped for a brief rest, and refilled our water bottles at a small green area on the edge of Leon. Will I ever be able to keep going for all those kilometres? ....

We saw this grass-roofed shelter with its nearby Fuente (fountain with drinking water)on our first day's walk.

My feet were very tired by the time we reached our destination for the night.

Vilar de Mazarife – Vallata Hispania Alberge de Jesus.

We had a 4-bed dorm to ourselves, and slept well. . The title of this refugio is intriguing. Obviously, many of the pilgrims who stayed here put a religious interpretation on the name, and the walls inside were covered with all kinds of spiritual sayings and uplifting messages. But in fact, the hospitaliero's wife told me herself that it is called after the owner himself since his name is Jesus (pronounced 'hay-zeus')

This friendly hospitaliero willingly posted some of my stuff post-restante to await me in Santiago, and so relieved me of some of the extra weight I was carrying.

8. Thur July 3 2008 [Day Two] Villar de Mazarife - Astorga

Dark and freezing cold start around 0530, and very few yellow arrows. We kept looking back towards the rising sun behind us as we travelled along the straight road heading still into darkness. Fields on either side with unidentifiable crops. Would we never see a yellow arrow to confirm we were on the right road. You can look at Joey's 2008 photos to see the one of me with the drip which clung to the end of my nose for a long time.

Fonda-Bara Vda de Isidro Seijas Puente de Orbigo, Leon

One of the numerous bars we stopped at along the way. As you can see by the picture, even Joey was feeling the cold, and this was when we stopped for breakfast at 0857 when we had hoped it would be warming up.

Luckily later on, the sun did come out as the next picture shows, though I don't seem to remember it getting anyway HOT, which is what I would have been wanting.

Joey at a wayside art-work shrine in the middle of nowhere on the way to Astorga.

Albergue de Peregrinos San Javier Astorga

This albergue was very near the cathedral. Lovely friendly people welcomed us, and we spent some time chatting to Spanish girl who had spent time learning English in Templeogue in Dublin near where I live. Once we had settled in, our first task was to locate a new rucksack for me, one that would hold both food and clothes, and yet be not too heavy to carry.

Good rucksack's are not cheap in Astorga. One shop showed me a very special one, designed for a woman's physique, with taut mesh at the back to allow sweat to evaporate. However, I reckoned that 125Euros was not worth paying, just for one walking holiday. So in a different shop, Joey helped me choose one for 42 Euros, very comfortable and well worth the investment in comfort for the rest of the journey. We packed the bags I had been using previously, ready to send home, but as it happened, I had to carry them for several days before we were in a big enough place to post them. I bought some other items while I was in Astorga, including a torch which was invaluable for our early morning starts.

I also got to see the outside of another Gaudi building - the Bishop's Palace. I loved the romantic fairytale appearance of its turrets in the light of the setting sun.

I wandered around the area and found a couple of peace monuments, one of which you can see here.This peace monument was very near the Albergue we stayed in but still I managed to get lost, and walked further than I need have done to find my way back to the Albergue.

9. Fri July 4 2008 [Day Three] Atchoooooooooooo! Astorga to Rabanal

Our third day of walking took us through an area of wild-flowers and grasses - fascinating for me, but a challenge for Joey's hay-fever. Not only did I see varieties of flowers I wasn't familiar with, but the profusion of them, and the lack of any discernable diseases or insect marks amazed me.

Alberge de peregrinos Nostra Senora del Pilar, Rabanal del Camino

Lovely hostel with internal courtyard and very friendly staff. Did laundry. When it rained, we could pull in the clothes-horses and let things continue to dry under the shadow of the big entrance arch. Good food was available very reasonable. I think this is the place where we went to the evening prayer led by two Benedictine monks who have recently come to live in the area. They took good account of the various nationalities present, and made sure that readings were in English French and German as well as Spanish. This is where I bought the little brass pilgrim scallop shell, though I was so afraid of losing it that I never put it on display, but kept in in my purse the entire journey.

It was good to end the day with a hearty bowl of pasta before early bed, ready for the next day's tough climb.

10. Sat July 5 2008 [Day Four] Rabanal del Camino - Molinaseca

It was quite chilly when we set out from Rabanal, and immediately started climbing. We were already at 1162 metres (that is 3812 feet, already 100 metres higher than Ireland's highest mountain, Carrantuohill (3414 ft - 1050 metres). This was a true case of 'onwards and upwards'.

Water fountain with undrinkable water. This is a very good piece of signage, except for one thing, it faces away from the approaching road so could easily be missed by some poor thirsty pilgrim.

***

The higher we climbed, the more misty it became, but sometimes through the mist, we got glimplses of the sunlit countryside below.

We took our first stop at Conventu de Foncebadon. This is one of my favourite memories of the whole Camino when we entered what looked like a bar from the outside, and heard the plain chant Easter Exultet playing as we entered. You can listen to it here (including lyrics). I felt particularly blessed by this music as we had been walking uphill for quite a distance, and somehow the music seemed very appropriate to express the feeling of conquering this climb. Foncebadon is at 1439 metres, that is 4721 feet, so we had done nearly a 1000 feet before breakfast. No wonder I felt 'exultant'

Not sure which village this was with the storm clouds over it - we passed through so many.







Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross) was quite a climb, into the clouds even.
This is almost the highest point of the Camino, for us an amazing 1531 metres (5022 feet)

The custom at this stage of the Camino, is to bring a stone from your own country and lay it at the cross.

Actually, I forgot to bring a stone from Ireland, so I brought one from the start of my Camino in Leon.

Refugio de Peregrinos de Manjarin Leon – Una Luz en el Camino

We didn’t stay the night in Manjarin, but I was really glad we visited this unique refugio. The hospitaliero rings the bell when he sees pilgrims approaching on the road, to make sure they know he is there.
As you can see by the picture, the place is a fascinating mixture of hand-craft and commercial souvenirs. I bought a Tau-shaped key-ring with a yellow arrow for Tony.

The journey down from the Cruz de Ferro is difficult in a different way to the ascent. For me, there was the constant fear of toppling forward down the steep slope, so I moved slowly, and with great caution. (Having had several falls at home, and only last year broken my nose in a fall, I wasn't taking any risks.

Joey had been dreading the descent for a different reason as he had found downhills very challenging last year. So I lent him one of my sticks and very soon he was way ahead of me.

At some point during the early afternoon we met up with two pilgrims, one of whom also needed to walk slowly. It worked out ideally. Joey, returned the stick to me, and set out at speed with Monica from Indiana, while I moved much more slowly with Kat from Denmark.

Village of Acebo
Even moving more slowly, once we got down to a lower altitude, the afternoon sun was very hot. In the village of Acebo, Kat and I sat exhausted on someone’s steps, and they brought us out a bowl of cherries to eat. What kindness on a hot day!
While we were sitting there resting, and half waiting for the others to find us, or to make some kind of contact, a text came in from Joey. He and Monica were already at our destination, Molinaseca, and had booked places for us in the Albergue. What a relief. We were fixed up for the night. We only had to find our way there.

***

Actually, I'm not 100% sure that I took this picture in Acebo, but definitely these are NOT the steps we sat on to eat the cherries.

***

Albergue de Santa Marina Molinaseca

This was a very civilized albergue with real beds, not bunks, and even space between the beds. We had a communal meal for and extra 8 Euros and the chat was great.

People in the picture, left to right are Monica from US, Joey from Ireland, Another chap from Ireland whose name I don't remember, and Kat from Denmark.
Other people I remember from the meal were Gerda from Salsburg, and Martin (I think from Tours, but I could be wrong)

11. Sun July 6 2008 [Day Five] Molinaseca - Villafranca del Bierzo

I think maybe we didn't start quite so early this day. I remember that I had taken a glass of wine at the dinner the previous night, and found it hard to get started.

We stopped along the way at Las Cuadras in Pontefereada, and then pushed on to Cacabelos where I went to Mass, and then we had lunch at Mc'Cua. By this time, I was beginning to realize that I really didn't like the large 'bocadilla' spanish style farmers sandwiches which were mostly what was on offer wherever we ate. I was longing for an ordinary toasted cheese sandwich. so that is what I ordered. Well, they did their best, but they just don't have the knack. They toasted the bread separately, didn't use butter, and then put cold tomatoes and cheese inside! Still, hunger is good sauce, and I finished it all.

From Cacabelos it was about another two hours walk to Villafranca where we spent the night. I had found this a tough day, and a lot of the time I was imagining journey’s end as saying ‘Ave Felix’ (hail happiness) However I had got the wrong name, and maybe Ave Fenix is more appropriate, since we actually went to bed with our legs and feet in flames, and got up in the morning like totally new people.

Ave Fenix Por los caminos de Santiago Ultreya Villafranca del Beirzo

This was another place with great character – I really appreciate when the hospitalieros do handcraft around the place, making it so much more homely than a hotel.

I loved this piece of simple metalwork. For me it emphasized the whole goal of the Camino - the journey towards the Field of Stars, where a dreamer had listened to a dream, and a bishop has made the dream come true.

Joey and I went out into the town, and had a very nice meal in one of the many cafes. As we wandered around the town, we found a Chinese shop open and I bought flip-flops for using in the shower area (By now I knew that all refugios seem to have very wet shower floors) and a small thermometer to record just how hot (or cold) it was. Alas I subsequently lost it along the way a day or two later.

12. Mon July 7 2008 [Day Six] Villafranca - O Cebreiro

Before leaving Ave Fenix, we availed of the offer to pay a donation to charity in return for having our bags transported to O Cebreiro hostel.

They tied a little string - ours were red and white - to each bag to show which albergue it was to be delivered to. Only later did we realize that we were the greatest beneficiaries as it was a long tough climb to O Cebreiro.

When I saw yet another Pilgrim statue, I was struck that, so far, they were all men, as if it was unusual for women to make the journey to Santiago.

I have only a vague recollection of where we stopped to eat in Vega de Valcarce. I know that I was walking with Monica and somehow I got mixed up as to where we were, thinking we had advanced much further than we had.

It was already 1830 when we crossed the border into Galicia where this picture at the left was taken.

A word about what I am wearing. The hat I bought in the Square for 7 Euros, the kaftan, which was invaluable in the heat, was a gift Hazel brought me from North Africa some years ago; The wool sweater around my neck I got at the McLean Gathering on the Isle of Mull last year; under the sweater you can see the silk scarf, a gift from Mary that protected me from sun-burn; the moneybelt which Tony gave me years ago, has been around the world with me on various travels; the rain-jacket cost 8 Euros and also kept out the wind, as well as giving me access to my water bottle, and my camera in its two big pockets; Rosie got me the two walking poles and without them, I would never have made the ups and downs. You can even see my shoes, just ordinary ecco walking shoes, and the special socks to prevent blisters. I wouldn't have changed a thing, and I was able to wear much the same outfit throughout the walk.

Albergue Do Cebreiro

This was a long day’s walk, and I was very slow so we didn’t reach our destination until evening. The albergue was run by the municipal authorities, and was functional and reasonably clean.

Joey and Kat had collected our bags, and after signing in at the albergue, we went to Venta Celta to eat.O Cebreiro village seemed to sell pulpo (octopus) in every single bar and restaurant. But I still didn’t sample it. It seemed ludicrous that this village, situated inland at a height of 1291 m - 4235.5 ft, was so into seafood. I can't remember what I ate, but I know I cautiously abstained from any wine.

13. Tues July 8 2008 [Day Seven] O Cebreiro - Triacastela

My first impressions of Gallicia were how like Ireland it is at times. But look at the blue of thiat sky in the other picture - that certainly doesn't look like Ireland 2008 - with grey skies and rainfall to beat all records.

Actually, these two pictures are taken in the same place, three minutes apart. Who says the camera never lies.

Somewhere along our journey, I found a bank-link machine, and topped up my cash. But where was it - I have no idea! Obviously I am only remembering the important parts of the journey. The photos I took are good memory joggers. Those previous pictures are in the village where we stopped for lunch. Later we were in woodland area, seeing massive trees with gnarled trunks, a real invitation to climb if we weren't so pushed for time.

Later Monica did climb a monster of a tree in a village where an old man talked no stop to us in Spanish. I think he was trying to sell us something, or to persuade us to stay somewhere close by. Later again, just as we were about to cross a main road, we were met by an old woman with a stick. She was definitely recommending that we stay in a particular refugio Oribio when we got to Triacastela. We were only half listening to her as we were hoping that Joey and Kat would have places booked wherever they were. As it turned out, we did end up staying in Oribio, and it was a lovely place, just as she said. We gathered from the hospitaliero that the woman was her mother!

Albergue del Refugio del Oribio, Triacastela, Lugo

For a long time, I had no recollection of this place either. where Joey had his memorable hot/cold shower.

Well, since then I was talking to Joey and he managed to jog my memory.

No wonder I couldn’t remember the hostel with the eccentric shower. Monica and I got to Tricastela late in the evening, and there were no beds left in that municipal hostel where Joey and Kat were staying. So we went to a private hostel a short walk away where we were made very welcome. In the morning, it turned out that Kat and Joey had to climb up to where we were, en route to leaving the town.

14. Wed July 9 2008 [Day Eight] Triacastela - Sarria

Our early morning walking took us past this reflective pool where I photographed Joey photographing me. You can see the picture he too in his slide show I have a large shell behind me.

Later Kat and I were in woodland again - but forget the smooth paths in parklands - look at the stones and crevices - and this section is only medium rough.

Some of our journey took us along country roads like the one where we met this woman with her cows - I wasn't quick enough with the camera to snap the whole herd.

Casa Do Franco Camino Frances was one of the places we stopped to eat but I don't remember much, other than sitting outside and that the toilet (aseo) had Sweet Alyssum growing near it. Alysum seemed such a gentile little plant in this wild terrain.

The journey this day wasn't so difficult, and we reached Sarria early. I took a picture of the mural on the church opposite Don Alvaro's at 1319! This is not a very good picture. The mural/fresco? looks fairly old and shows pilgrims making their way to the entrance of the church.

Albergue Don Alvaro, Sarria

The best refugio by a long shot. Very welcome, good kitchen and dining room, Internal courtyard with pool where you could bathe your feet, excellent laundry facilities, roof-garden with drying lines so clothes dried in 2 hours, loungers to sun-bathe, or snooze under the vines. In the evening, Monica made a feast of Paella with all the trimmings, and afterwards the hospitaliero invited us to taste his liqueur collection. I just took a sip or two - potent stuff - and went to bed after doing a stack of dishes. No idea what time it was then, or what time the others retired. With my eye-mask and ear-plugs, I slept the sleep of the dead.

15. Thur July 10 2008 [Day Nine] Sarria - Portomarín 22kms

No early start next morning. I think we would all have loved to stay on in the sunshine of this welcoming placeut we got ourselves packed up, and then Joey came with me to post the extra bags home - I needed him to translate.

Acogida del Peregrino Parroquia Santa Marina Sarria

Think this might be the Benedictine monastery where Joey got his second Passport, having filled the first one between 2007 and 2008 journeys. there was an interesting exhibition of art here, and I had a chance to browse quickly through it.

A Carabana Barbadelo I think this is the place shown in the picture. It was a welcome break to be able to sit there in the cool shade of the blue awning, sipping cool drinks.

I was walking with Monica again, and this was a special moment as we passed the

Santiago marker telling us we had only 100 km to go .

Shortly afterwards we found ourselves walking upstream along stepping stones.

The only challenge was usually at the end of the stream where it was all too easy to slip into the mud!

Monica has an interest in cemeteries, and in one, which consisted only of vaults, there was an unusual artifact shaped like a stone bowl, which reminded me very much of a similar object at home in Tallaght where it is known locally as 'Moll Rooney's Losset', (Moll Rooney being a distortion of the name of the local 7th century saint, St Maelruan.) Picture and notes here

Casa Cruceiro Ferreiros

I only have two souvenirs of this, the 9th day of our journey. One is a little card from this restaurant. I have no clear memory of what it was like, or of what time of day we might have stopped there. The other souvenir is a walnut. This was given, one each, to myself and Monica by an old man who asked us to pray for him at the Cathedral in Santiago. I hardly think he will read this blog, but if he does, he might like to know that yes, I did remember him, and his walnut was in my hand during the Mass.

O’Mirador Restaurante and Albergue

The entrance into the town of Portmarin was beautiful. We crossed the end of a lake, and climbed steep steps to our albergue. This was another albergue that I didn’t much care for, though the view down to the river was lovely, the climb up the steps was tough. We had something to eat, and then bed.

16. Fri July 11 2008[Days Ten & Eleven] Portomarín - Melide (think the days/dates might be somewhat mixed up.)

We went astray and it took us ages to find our way out of the town of Portomarin. The yellow arrows can be deceptive, as sometimes the official ones are augmented by albergue owners – fine in the evening when you want to be guided to a resting place, but very confusing in the semi-dark of early morning when you want to get on your way to Santiago.

Café-bar Gonzar Camino Frances a Santiago de Compostela Gonzar Portomarin Lugo

Think this is probably where we had our breakfast next morning. There is no date on the stamp, only the name and place

Mato Casanova Rede de Albergues de Camino.
And we must have stopped somewhere else during the morning also, though I have not photos, and no souvenirs that I can find.

Some time around mid-day we reached the town of Palas del Rel where Joey and I found a place, Pardellas Pizzeria, where I could indulge my longing for pizza. Unlike the famous cheese sandwich, the pizza was cooked to perfection, and we ate it with relish. Then before we left the town, we had ice-cream for dessert. In the morning I had agreed with Joey to continue after our midday break, and to see how I would manage distance-wise. The one thing we agreed was that he wouldn't let me know how far we had gone - as the Child part of me reckons that if I don't know how far I've gone, I don't know how tired I'm supposed to feel.

Onwards we went. On our way we saw these two stone pilgrims. I think it is the only place I saw a female pilgrim depicted.
But there have been female pilgrims down through the ages. In the guide-book I used, it mentions Queen Isabella making the pilgrimage in 1486.

Casa de los Somoza Melide a Coruna

I think this may have been the place where we drank soft drinks under the awning of an outdoor bar.

On we went, following the yellow arrows, some almost obliterated, some very clear. I particularly liked the one made of painted shells that I saw over someone's door.

Outside the town of Melide, we saw a huge pilgrim cross silhouetted against the evening sky. I took a quick snap, but Joey did several re-takes of me, until he got my silhouette just the way he wanted it. You can see the picture he took also in the slide-show on his blog.

Not long after this, we trooped wearily into the Albergue in Melide.

Alberge de Melide

This was yet another very welcoming albergue and it was here that Joey let me know that I had walked 40 km that day. I was flabbergasted! Yes I felt tired, but no way in a state of collapse. Everyone made a big fuss of me, which was lovely, but a bit unfair to the younger people who had also made the marathon trip.

. Sat July 12 2008 [Days Ten & Eleven] Melide - Pedrouzo

Next morning we set out early again. Our aim was to cover as much ground as we could so as to leave ourselves with a manageable distance for Sunday where we planned to attend the special Pilgrims Mass in the Cathedral which encloses the tomb of St James.

The first place we stopped was in Boente. Ministerio Parroquial de Cantiago de Boente Here I collected a stamp, and a novena(ninth-Prayer) to Santiago Apostol. I also said a quick prayer in his little chapel which was spotlessly clean, and all ready set up for Mass later in the day.

Parroquia de Santiago de Arzua a unido leon? I'm not clear if this is where we stopped for breakfast. My souvenirs include part of a paper napkin which says: Saturday, Breakfast, Pie (+?, Agua claiente +Limon and folded in the napkin was a sugar packet with the name Cafe Jurado. What kind of pie did I have? No recollection!

Bar Tia Dolores A Calle I think Tia Dolores means Auntie Dolores. Anyway, I think this was a nice place, a small refugio, which I got to see when I asked to use the loo. I have a vague memory of classical music, or perhaps folk music being played also.

We were late getting this far, and we didn’t get accommodation until our third albergue.

The first place we tried for accommodation was at Santa Irene. They didn't have any beds.

We walked on another couple of kilometresto the next hostel, I think it was at A Rua. They could offer us two beds, but there were three of us, and no way were we going to split up.

So we walked on some more, into the outskirts of Pedrouza where we got accommodation in a fine municipal hostel

Albergue Porta de Santiago Arca O Pino

However, it was lovely, and nice to know that we had shortened the journey we would have to make to Santiago in the morning. After we had registered we went out for a meal at Hospedaje – Café-Bar O Meson O Pino a Coruna

Then back at the albergue, after a wonderful shower, fell into a dreamless sleep, despite the noise of a barbeque on the veranda just outside the dormitory door.

18. Sun July 13 2008 [Day Twelve] S A N T I A G O ! ! !

Our last day on the Camino started early so we were glad to have our torch to show us the yellow arrows. When the path led us into a forest, we were twice as glad., especially in places where the path was rough and wound steeply upwards.

When we came out of the forest, it was like we were on top of the world for the dawn.

A concha Café Bar Labacolla Santiago A corona this was quite a posh bar, compared with some of the village bars we had eaten in before. Sure sign we were coming near the big city.

I wasn't in good form, and now that the journey was nearly over, I couldn't wait to see the end of it. Perhaps you can read this in my bent shoulders as I put my head down like a bull, and forged ahead.(picture taken from Joey's Blog)

If you look in the picture, you will notice that the road is rising yet again. I was fed up with hills, especially hills that just kept climbing up, only to go right down on the other side, so that I would have to climb up all over again.

This was one of those. I think it was called Monte de Gozo. When we got to the top, there seemed to be some kind of fair about to start. Lots of brightly dressed people, and even some music.

I didn't want to know. I plodded on. At the bottom of the next hill, there was a huge roundabout with a big monument in the centre of it. For once I was ahead of the others, so I was able to stop and take some photos.

On one side of the monument was the pilgim's hand-print, and When Joey caught up, he photographed my hand in it.

Suddenly, I became aware of the sound of music and singing. I looked around. It seemed to be the people we had seen on top of Monte de Gozo.

Immediately, I switched to video, and recorded them as they passed. As I listened, I became aware that the words of their song seemed to be about 'Santa Rosita, Santa Romero I decided to follow them, guessing that they might be going to the Cathedral.

What a sight they made - men, women and children - their feathered head-dresses, their footwear that made such a great sound as they marched, their insturments, and the special sound of the great shell they were blowing periodically.

I wish I knew their name, this band of singer/musicians who led us in to Santiago, and whose music did such magic on my flagging energy. Where did they come from, and why were they dressed like that? If anyone knows, please send me a comment below.

Anyway, they performed a miracle for me. gone was my tiredness, mynegative feelings. I was energized by their music and the urgency with which they were moving. I stepped in behind them and followed them all the way - and yes, my guess was right, they did lead us to the Cathedral ( There is another video on Joey's blog that shows me marching with them)

At the Cathedral, they were left outside, and at the last minute before Mass started, they were ushered to the best seats in the house, inside the sanctuary, right in front of the bishops and priests who were celebrating the Mass - in Spanish of course! It was a lovely Mass with a special choir singing very fancy music. I would have liked to hear the marchers, but that had to wait till afterwards.

First we had to see what I can only describe as a spectacular finale. The Bishop/celebrant lit the incense in what was actually more like a very large silver sanctuary lamp which was lowered down where he could reach it. Suddenly, some attendants began to make it swing, and as they pulled on the thick ropes, this huge smoking 'thurifier, over the tops of our heads. It was like nothing I had ever seen in a church before - fare more like what happens in a circus. But it was all very controlled and elegant, and by degrees, the mad swinging slowed down to gentle, and then stopped. The ropes pulled the silver object back up high, and then the Bishop gave the blessing and we all left. After Mass, the marching musicians led us out of the Church, but that was the last I saw of them. In this video you can see their faces clearly, and their beautiful feather head-dresses. Please if you recognize them and know who they are, do let me know using the comments at the end of this page.

Oficina de la Pergrinal Sa--- General Santiago

This is the office where we were given the ‘Compostela’, a piece of paper that validates that you have made the Camino journey. You can see a picture of the actual Compostela on Joey's page.

Here is a translation of the latin wording:

The Chapter of this Holy Apostolic Metropolitan Cathedral of St. James, custodian of the seal of St. James' Altar, to all faithful and pilgrims who come from everywhere over the world as an act of devotion, under vow or promise to the Apostle's Tomb, our Patron and Protector of Spain, witnesses in the sight of all who read this document, that: Mr…………………has visited devoutly this Sacred Church in a religious sense (pietatis causa).

Witness whereof I hand this document over to him, authenticated by the seal of this Sacred Church.

Given in St. James de Compostela on the (day)……(month)……A.D. ………

Chapter Secretary

Notice that it just mentions 'he/him, so it must be that it was written at a time before inclusive language was thought of.

Franciscanos no camino Santiago de Compostela

It was at the office where we got the Compostela that they mentioned to us to try the Franciscans for a bed for the night. Again, a wonderful simple refugio – not even listed in the guides. We were welcomed with a cool drink of water, and Brother Luca washed our poor feet and put some kind of ointment on them - a true miracle of kindness. Before bed, we had prayers with the brothers, very beautiful, but a bit long for my taste. Part of the liturgy included a ceremonial washing of the feet, but it wasn't nearly so impressive as the real ministery we had received when we arrived.
19. Mon July 14 2008

We left the Franciscans early in the morning. I went to the bus station to book our tickets to Barcelona. The idea was that I would travel on then to Finistere, But when I checked the connections, it was too tight to take the risk of missing the bus to Barcelona.

It was at Alsa Punto de Venta Sant. Compostela that I got the last stamp in my passport when I bought our tickets from Alsa, to go to Barcelona

So instead, I wandered Santiago on my own for the day, and had a very pleasant time. I found the Campo de Estrella which was what I felt I was setting out for, all those days ago.It was very low key - in fact I'm not sure anyone except myself took any notice of it.

In the evening I made my way (with some losing of myself) back to the coach station where I met Joey and we travelled by coach overnight SANTIAGO to BARCELONA

SANTIAGO to BARCELONA to DUBLIN

20. Tue July 15 2008

As it happened, The lady from whom Joey rents his room was going away for a few days, so we had the apartment to ourselves. That first day I unpacked, did some laundry, and spent a lot of time just resting and relaxing. I even wrote a few notes on my memories of the camino.

21. Wed July 16 2008

Barcelona

22. Thu July 17 2008

Still in Barcelona, I went to see yet another Gaudi building that I hadn't seen before - Palau Guell, which is very close to where Joey lives. The restoration process has only recently started, so only part of the building is on show. But as always, I loved every bit I could see, especially the metalwork at the entrance.

23. Fri July 18 2008

Early morning start for the coach-station iTravelled by coach BARCELONA to BILBAO

Travelled by coach overnight BILBAO to PARIS

24. Sat July 19 2008

Travelled by coach and ferry PARIS to LONDON

Travelled by coach and ferry overnight LONDON to DUBLIN

25. Sun July 20 2008

Blue skies and sunshine greeted me when I arrived in DUBLIN early morning, met by Tony and Mary. Breakfast, then sleep - I was glad to be home.

Text of Pope Benedict 16 talking about his visits to Santiago di Compostela and to Sagrada Familia in Barcelona,  November 2010